While most travelers immediately turn right toward the busy South Coast, at Catterfly, we recommend "The Road Less Rotated." By choosing a clockwise Iceland itinerary, we avoided the initial crowds and saved the massive waterfalls for a grand finale. In this blog, we share our personal & expert-led journey through the Westfjords and the Arctic North, proving that turning left is the secret to finding a "cocoon" of comfort in Iceland’s most remote corners.
1. The Lady of the Island & the Giant’s Coast
Our first night in Stykkishólmur set the tone. We stayed in a lodge run by an incredible woman who grew up on a tiny island of just 20 people. That evening, we sat by the lighthouse in total silence, watching the ferries cut through the water. It was the kind of peace you just can’t buy.
"The next day, we explored the Snæfellsnes Peninsula. People call it "Iceland in Miniature" because it has a bit of everything. We didn't just see the sights; we felt the history."
Kirkjufell: You might know this "Church Mountain" from Game of Thrones. Seeing its perfect shape mirrored in the water at midnight was spiritual.
Arnarstapi: We walked along basalt cliffs where a massive stone statue of the half-giant Bárður watches over the sea.
Saxhóll Crater: This was the ultimate "impromptu" adventure. We saw a red volcano cone, pulled over, and climbed 100 meters of metal stairs. In ten minutes, we were standing on the rim of a volcano looking at the Atlantic. That’s the freedom of the clockwise route.
2. Smugglers and Midnight Puffins
Next, we pushed into the true frontier: the West Fjords. In Patreksfjörður, it felt like we had reached the end of the world. At midnight, under the "white night" sun, we hiked the Látrabjarg cliffs. Thousands of puffins were just hanging out—they didn't mind us at all.
"We stayed with a pilot who owned a private aircraft museum. He literally handed us the keys and said, "Explore as you like." Finding an abandoned smuggler’s plane in the middle of the Icelandic wilds felt like stepping into a Cold War thriller."
3. Witchcraft and Warm Wool
As we drove on, we stayed at a farmhouse that owned an entire valley. While the kids went horseback riding, we soaked in a private thermal pool. But the West Fjords has a mysterious side, too. It was once the home of black magic. We visited the Museum of Witchcraft, where the line between myth and reality feels very thin.
Before leaving the area, we spotted seals lounging by Hvitserkur (the "Elephant Rock") and warmed up at a wool factory in Hvammstangi. The owner explained why Icelandic wool is the warmest on Earth—perfect for the biting North wind.
4. Crossing the Arctic Circle
In Akureyri, we visited the whimsical Santa Claus village and watched the midnight sun from our deck. Then came the real test: Grimsey Island.
"Pro Tip: Take the motion sickness tablets. The 3-hour ferry ride is legendary for its waves!"
But standing at the giant stone ball that marks the Arctic Circle made it worth it. The wind was so fierce the puffins were struggling to cross the road! Interestingly, this tiny island is also a world-class spot for chess.
