We just wanted a dose of warm weather, honestly, without realizing we were stepping into a country that’s so incredibly colorful, vibrant, and yet, so deeply traditional at its roots. The decision to go was mostly logistical: an inexpensive and short-haul flight from Switzerland to Morocco was too good to pass up, and the easy visa process (we got our visa on the spot from the Moroccan embassy in Berne back then—though it’s even easier now with e-visa and visa-on-arrival for many nationalities!) sealed the deal. Plus, we love to drive!
Getting There and Getting Around
Morocco is a big place, so where you fly in really depends on your trip length and itinerary. You can land in Agadir, Casablanca, Tangier, or Marrakech. Since we planned a southern route, Marrakech was our landing spot.
As for getting around, we prefer self-driving. It’s definitely for the more experimental traveller, as it involves long drives and local road rules, but it offers so much freedom. If that’s not your style, driver-guides are available and quite affordable. For major cities, the train connections are a great, stress-free option too.
Our Riad Revelation in Marrakech 🕌
Our travel is always shaped by a deep desire to stay, visit, and eat in truly local and authentic places. We always do our research and pre-book essentials, but our first hours are always spent chatting with locals for the best tips.
Landing in Marrakech, the non-negotiable was a Riad. Thank goodness we did! These are traditional Moroccan homes, renovated with modern comforts. Our Riad was full of colour and charm, with a beautiful courtyard perfect for relaxing morning and evening, and an in-house cook who made the freshest, most delicious local breakfasts.
A quick heads-up: Don’t judge a Riad by its cover! The entry and the alleyways outside can look a little unassuming or rustic, but the stunning, tranquil experience waiting inside is a wonderful surprise.
After a few brilliant days exploring Marrakech—getting a Henna design in the evening Medina, haggling in the spice market, and hitting all the local gems—we ventured off to Agadir. We needed that essential sunshine and beach break!
Agadir: The Coastal Contrast 🌊
We checked into a lovely beachside boutique resort in Agadir. The city is a great place to just relax. You have a beautiful Corniche (seaside promenade) for walks, the modern Medina for a bit of shopping, and endless options for watersports and day trips, including some fun desert adventures nearby.
But the real highlight for me was the Museum of Amazigh Culture (Musée Municipal du Patrimoine Amazighe). This was such an eye-opener! It’s dedicated to the Berber people, the indigenous inhabitants of North Africa, and their history, art, and traditions. It really helped us connect with the deeper culture before heading south.
The Road of a Thousand Kasbahs 🌵
From Agadir, we headed east, then south, towards the southern Sahara Desert via Zagora. We were determined to experience the real Saharan desert!
Our drive took us through the incredible "land of a thousand Kasbahs" south of the Atlas Mountains. These Kasbahs—traditional mud-brick fortresses or strongholds—are absolutely mesmerizing, lining the route as old, renovated, and sometimes ruined structures.
We stopped and stayed at a very authentic Kasbah en-route, which had eleven terraces! It was easily one of our best stays. We spent the evening chatting with the owner over local wine and a home-cooked Tagine. He was so knowledgeable, having studied filmmaking in Berlin before coming back to work as an arranger for Hollywood production companies. He explained how Morocco, with its safety and incredible scenery, is the perfect backdrop for movies that need a Middle Eastern look—like Gladiator, which was partially shot near Ouarzazate, which now even has a Hollywood museum! He even shared traditional stories, like the real history behind the tales of Ali Baba and the Forty Thieves.
The Magic of the Sahara Desert Night ✨
We booked a one-night stay in an authentic camp in the Sahara. Our rental car was definitely not built for desert driving, so the camp owner, Bilal, had us park at his home and drove us the rest of the way in his trusty Jeep. It was a total blast!
We spent the entire evening playing in what felt like the finest, cleanest sand imaginable. Seriously, our feet felt polished! We also took a beautiful camel ride during sunset and visited a small Berber village. It was all set up in such an authentic way, without any of the commercial pestering you sometimes get.
Our authentic Moroccan dinner was prepared by a local chef in a little hut near the camp. We just sat there, listening to the sound of the sand blowing in the dark, completely disconnected. It was a little chilly inside the tent, but it was well-insulated and heated, so we slept soundly!
Waking up for the sunrise was worth the early rise. After morning tea and breakfast, and one last round of fun in the sand, we headed back to Zagora.
Ait-Benhaddou and a Royal Hammam 🛀
Driving back, our next big stop was the iconic Ait-Benhaddou, a stunning fortified village (a ksar) and a UNESCO World Heritage site. It’s an entire Kasbah built into a hillside!
We walked up the winding alleys, past small homes, to the very top, where the sweeping views of the valley were truly breathtaking.
That evening, exhausted, we stayed in a small, traditional Kasbah near Ouarzazate. It was so traditional that it was almost inaccessible by car. The owner actually came with his donkey cart to fetch our luggage! Seeing how tired we were, he offered us the use of his traditional Hammam (bathhouse). That scrub and steam turned into a truly royal bath experience—the perfect end to a long day.
These Kasbahs were fantastic because they all had local chefs preparing authentic meals in Tagines—you could choose your ingredients: chicken, vegetables, chickpeas, potatoes, etc. Always fresh and delicious!
Farewell Marrakech 👋
The next day, it was time to head back to Marrakech for our flight. The drive through the gorges and the Atlas Mountains was a gorgeous route, offering one last scenic spectacle.
For our final night in Marrakech, we decided to stay in the modern part of the city. It was a real contrast to the Riad, clearly a hot spot for many Western travellers. We even saw an Indian Bollywood movie in the mall next door!
What an incredible trip. We went for the sun and left with a deep appreciation for the amazing people, the stunning landscapes, and the vibrant, ancient culture of Morocco.
