One Thousand and One Nights in Andalucía – The Magical Part of Spain

“The first thing that comes to your mind when you hear Spain, quick,” asked Nitin as we gathered at his dining table, racking our heads for the perfect holiday destination over Christmas. The rapid-fire game was on.

The answers rained fast from all ends of the table, “hot sun, endless sea, pure flamenco, delicious tapas, ferocious bullfights and the passionate temperamental folk.”

“True,” he said and continued to enlighten us with a twinkle in his eyes, “and all these are characteristic of the southern-most and autonomous region of Spain, Andalusia or Andalucía; a cauldron of cultures, a potpourri of religion, high-spirited people, the lingering aura of the long-gone Arabs, the mystique of a fairy-tale and deep-rooted traditions with a whiff of modernism. Andalucía seems to have assimilated the perfect mix of a luxuriant, voluptuous Italy and an untamed, desolate Africa, which is not far away. If you are relaxing on a beach on a sunny day, when the weather is clear, the silhouette of Northern Africa is visible across the Mediterranean. And history has brought the two continents and cultures close several times over centuries.”

Digging into the butter chicken, black daal and Basmati rice, fittingly accompanied by a Moscatel white wine from Spain, the ace traveller supplemented our growing knowledge. “The eight provinces of Andalucía are spread from south-east to south-west of the country; Cádiz, Córdoba, Jaén, Huelva, Almeria, Málaga, Granada and Seville, its capital. With sandy beaches stretching for kilometres, or miles if you prefer, breath-taking countryside, melancholy mountain ranges, wide-sweeping plains, infinite Olive orchards and Naranja (Oranges) groves, incredible centuries old monuments and bridges; and even more impressive, the ever-smiling and content people.”

Four weeks later, as our plane approached the modern Málaga – Costa del Sol airport, we were still undecided between the eclectic offerings of Andalucía; enchanting music and dance, challenging treks, comprehensive history, distinctive culture, colourful festivals, ceremonial processions, antique museums, recreational golf, flowing poetry, well-preserved monuments, magnificent horses, long drives, national parks, solitary farm houses, exquisite architecture and traditional handicrafts.

When we had planned and researched for our trip, we realised that there is no best or most popular time to visit Andalucía. Depending on preferences, any time during the year is a fit. If you want to drive between cities, see the architecture, play a round of golf or go hiking, spring is the perfect, mild season, but the sea is still quite cold. If you want to enjoy the sea-side, summer is your calling, but it can get rather hot during the day and siestas are a must. In autumn, you can enjoy both, mild temperatures for city trips and warm afternoons to laze at the beach. While winter attracts fewer tourists, so you can move around without being blockaded by crowds. And if you are feeling adventurous and plucky, you can ski in the morning snow in the Sierra Nevada mountains and within an hour and a half, descend to the beach for a refreshing dip in the Mediterranean Sea.

During our passage through the Andalucían provinces, we saw stunning scenery, experienced adventitious sounds, tried sumptuous food, felt the warmth of Christmas and touched the revelry of the imminent new year; the transient snippets converging to ever-lasting memories at a dizzying pace — too many to describe and at times, the emotions and feelings too overwhelming to share. Some experiences and cities left instant imprints in our memory.

Ronda and Medina Sidonia: two different ‛pueblos blancos’ (white towns, named for the uniform colour of the houses) with Moorish architecture, whitewashed houses, red-tiled roofs, iron banisters and narrow, winding alleys and labyrinthine streets. There’s something exceptional about Ronda — it’s location. Set up in the mountains, on the edge of a 400-foot cliff, with stunning views of the valley below and bridges, mind-boggling feats of engineering, spanning the canyon. The whole town was decorated in the best spirits of Feliz Navidad. As the evening set in, walking together under the brightly decorated Christmas lights, in narrow and winding lanes paved with cobblestones and lined with enticing shops, time simply stopped.

And Medina-Sidonia, not far from Cádiz, seems to be a melting pot of different civilisations. Even to our untrained eye, we could make out Roman, Islamic and other cultures influencing the town’s history and architecture. Roman artefacts, the Puerta del Sol, the ruins of the Arab castle of Torrestrella on the top of a hill, overlooking the town and rugged hills dotted with white windmills as far as the eye can see.

Ankit